How Chemical Exfoliation Works To Perfect Your Skin
Chemical exfoliation may sound scary, but it has made its way into almost everyone’s skincare routine one way or another. You’ve no doubt heard beauty experts express their love for chemical exfoliating products which include AHAs and BHAs to help deliver outstanding results, but what exactly are they and how do they differ to manual face scrubs. Let’s dive in to find out more about chemical exfoliation.
What is a chemical exfoliant?
Chemical exfoliants are acids that react with the skin once they are applied. They have the ability to remove the build-up of dead skin cells, excess sebum and dirt that can lead to breakouts and the complexion becoming dull and lacklustre.
These exfoliants vary from physical scrubs because you do not need to add any pressure or movements to get the product working. Many believe that using chemical rather than manual exfoliation gives you a more uniform set of results without being too harsh on the skin.
How do chemical exfoliants work?
Once a chemical exfoliant is applied, the acid works its way down into the layers of the skin and works hard at dissolving the “glue” of dead skin cells. Once the bounds are gone the dead cells are removed easily revealing a fresh, healthy layer of skin underneath.
It is typically Alpha Hydroxy Acids, or AHAS, that work on the outer layer of the skin helping to restore a glow back. By doing this they are removing the chances of dead skin cells building up causing breakouts, fine lines and wrinkles and dry patches to the skin. With Beta Hydroxy Acids, BHAs, you will find work further down into the lower layers of the skin and are able to slough away dead skin cells and clear out any bacteria, trapped dirt and excess sebum from blocked pores that later become blemishes, such as blackheads, spots and cysts.
This may indeed sound a little daunting at first, especially with the thought of using acid on your face, but the quantities are controlled to ensure that you will see great results. There are a number of acids available which can become confusing and you must proceed with caution to make sure you’re using the best acid you and your skin will love.
What chemical exfoliants acid should I use?
There’s no denying you are spoilt for choice when it comes to chemical exfoliants. There is an acid out there that will suit almost all skin types. Here is a rundown of the most popular and loved acids on the market, you will find that many products contain at least one of these acids.
Glycolic Acid- This acid is great for normal to oily skin types, it is able to exfoliant the skin and clear out clogged pores making them appear smaller and less visible. You will find this acid in face washes, toners and serums and give the skin a more even texture.
Malic Acid- This acid will revive dull-looking skin by buffing away dead skin cells to reveal a wonderfully healthy, mega-watt glow! This AHA is the lesser-known of the group but still likely to be found in face washes, serums and face masks.
Lactic Acid- This acid is more gentle and great to use for dry skin types. Flaky patches are wiped away and hydration is locked into thirsty skin giving an all-over smooth and nourished finish.
Salicylic Acid- This acid works the furthest down in the skin and can unclog pores and shift away dirt and debris with no problem making it a fail-safe for blemish-prone and oily skin. You will find this BHA in all many of products, from serums to masks and toners.
To make sure you have chosen the best acid for your skin always perform a patch test for 24 hours, apply a pea-size amount of the product either on your forearms or behind your ear, keeping a close eye for any skin irritation or reactions. If you are still unsure then seek the help from a dermatologist.
How to use a chemical exfoliant?
This all depends on what product your chemical exfoliant is formulated into. You must always keep in mind that too much exfoliation of the skin will create some issues if you notice your skin has become dry, tight and uncomfortable than you may unknowingly be using too many products containing acids, or you are over-using them.
Face Wash
The concentrates of the acids in a face wash are lower allowing you to cleanse your skin twice daily. You will find a marked improvement, especially with how squeaky clean you feel when using a chemical exfoliating face wash compared to other washes.
Toner
The acid levels are usually higher in toners so how many times a week you use them is down to you and the skin type you have. Begin with 3 times a week and see how your skin reacts and feels. If you feel as though you need a little extra than increase the usage, if you are feeling dry and tight, decrease the usage.
Serums
Serums are tricky to determine as the concentrates vary a lot from brand to brand. Some advise on nightly application, while others suggest less. Check the ingredients and instructions that come with the product to make sure you are using them correctly.
Face Masks
It’s best to only use a face mask at a maximum of 3 times a week, any more will result in skin irritation and an uncomfortably tight face.
Those are the most popular products found to contain chemical exfoliating properties, as previously mentioned if you are adding a new product to your routine make sure it is safe and the right one for your skin.
Can I use a face mask after a chemical exfoliant?
It depends on what ingredients are in the formula of the face mask, try avoiding any that contain facial acids and other potentially harsh compounds. If you are wanting to use a face mask after because your skin is feeling tight, or perhaps stinging than it is best to leave the skin bare for about 20 minutes, this will give your face enough time to rebalance the oil and water levels in your skin’s barrier. Applying water-based hydrating moisturisers will help calm the skin after using over the counter products, however, if it is a chemical peel you have had than following the advice of your consultant will very important.
Can I use chemical exfoliants under the eyes?
Not really, the skin around the eye area is very thin in comparison to the rest of your face, this is why the first signs of ageing usually start around the eyes. Any harsh acids under the eyes will cause a lot of problems and can potentially make the eyes extremely sore. There are only a couple of acids you can use around the eyes safely without any worry of irritation. Small amounts of glycolic will help with cell turn over helping with dark circles and hyaluronic acid (which isn’t the same as the other acids) to give the eye area a supercharged hydration boost.
How quick can you see the effects of chemical exfoliants?
The results vary from person to person, for some it can be after the first week, or others minutes after use!
With their ability to buff away the layer of dead skin you may find that your skin has come back to life looking more youthful, plumper and hydrated. Consistency is key and if you continue to use chemical exfoliation in your skincare routine overtime skin concerns such as blemishes and a dull complexion could become a distant memory. Other concerns, such as fine lines and wrinkles will start becoming less prominent after roughly 4 weeks.
Just keep in mind to not overdo it and let the chemical do all the hard work.
How to Remedy Oily Skin
Oily skin, much like other skin types, needs to have a clear understanding of how to treat it, control its symptoms and keep it healthy. Many believe that having oily skin is considered one of the easiest to get on top of, this isn’t 100% true as there is still a lot of misunderstanding about oily skin, from which ingredients to look out for, to which products to use. We have taken the time to answer some of your most popular questions when it comes to oily skin, so read on to find out more.
What Causes Oily Skin?
Oily skin occurs when the sebaceous glands in the skin make too much sebum. Sebum is the natural oil found in your skin, it has a waxy, oil-like consistency and is vital for keeping your skin healthy. For dry skins, sebum is something they are lacking, a very different story for oily skins as the overproduction of sebum can lead to a greasy appearance, clogged pores and spots.
Genetics and hormones also play a part in your skin being oily, things such as pregnancy can change the hormone balance and make the skin feel and look more shiny, even high levels of stress can become a trigger for excess oily sebum to be produced.
There are some symptoms that can help you identify whether you have an oily skin type:
A greasy and shiny appearance to the face, particularly in the T-zone area, from your chin, up your nose and across your forehead.
Very large and visible pores
Regular breakouts and spots
Clogged pores and blackheads
Patches of the skin that looks thick and rough to the touch
These symptoms can vary from person to person with many seeking to use strong products to prevent any oil. It may be tempting to grab a rough textured cloth or harsh astringent and dose your skin in it hoping to strip away all that oil, but you may be surprised to hear that oily skin appreciates a more gentle approach. The skin needs a certain level of sebum to keep it healthy, by stripping this all away with drying products will result in sending a message to the skin that there is an imbalance or trauma causing the skin to jump start excess sebum production. Inevitably, you’d be back to square one.
How To Get Rid Of Oily Skin
The bad news is, is that you can never completely get rid of oily skin, but the good news is, is that you can manage it. I’ll admit there are some downsides to having oily skin, but there are also some positives. One of them mainly being that an oily skin takes a long time to age in comparison to dry skin types. Fine lines, wrinkles and other signs of ageing do not begin to show for a while, meaning an oily skin stays looking younger, plumper and healthier for longer.
If you are really wanting to get a handle on managing your oily skin then the best prevention is to find a consistent good skincare routine. This routine must be tailored to your skin’s needs and have the right ingredients, such as the acids, glycolic and salicylic. You may have to adjust your current routine but once you have found the ideal one, stick to it!
Genetics and hormones can make things a little tricky for oily skins. You may find that your skin can become quite blemished during your menstrual cycle which is linked to the change in hormones. This time could also lead to the urge to indulge in greasy foods and transfats which can also cause complete havoc on the skin and result in blemishes. Focusing on your diet is important to keep the oil in your skin at the correct level. Not forgetting eating lots of vegetables, whole foods and plenty of water to keep the skin hydrated and happy.
If you are finding that none of these is having an effect than a visit to the dermatologist would help. There are many medical formulations and prescriptions that can help and with a consultation you can work closely with your dermatologist to treat the skin effectively.
How To Take Care Of Oily Skin
It is surprisingly simple to take care of oily skin and that is to find a skincare routine that works and sticking to it. This does mean some time and dedication is needed to perfect this routine, here is a rundown of the best steps to take.
Wash Regularly
Washing the skin regularly with a gentle cleanser that has been formulated for oily skin will remove any dirt, bacteria and excess oil.
Stir clear of any strong fragrances and avoid rough washcloths and loofahs.
Products containing ingredients such as salicylic and glycolic acids show the best results, ensure you perform a patch test before use as they can be too drying for some.
Use a Toner
Astringent toners contain alcohol, which can dry out the skin.
Opting for a natural astringent such as witch hazel will soothe the skin and not dry it out.
Using witch hazel as a toner can help remedy oily skin and reduce the appearance of enlarged pores.
Be careful when using witch hazel as some people experience a strong tingling reaction, if this irritation occurs stop using the product.
Don’t Forget to Moisturise
Don’t avoid moisturisers even if you have oily skin
Moisturisers help balance the skin’s protective barrier keeping free radicals and toxins at bay
Opt for formulas that are oil-free and hydrating
For a natural alternative, you can try aloe vera to soothe the skin and doesn’t disrupt the sebum production
Gentle Approach
Gently pat the face dry after cleansing to avoid any unwanted friction
Choose a soft cotton towel or flannel to use on your skin
Avoid harsh products that will strip and dry out the skin
Do not overuse face scrubs as this can also encourage excess oil
Use a Face Mask
Choose a face mask that is clay-based and use it once a week
Clay will naturally detoxify the skin and pores of any remaining bacteria and debris
Clay masks can control shininess and sebum levels without causing irritation
Be sure to follow up a mask with a hydrating moisturiser
Exfoliate Once a Week
Exfoliating once a week will keep the skin clear and pores unclogged
Ensure you do not overuse a scrub as this can cause excess sebum and irritation
You can choose either a manual exfoliation, such as a face scrub or chemical, such as face acids to achieve the desired amount of exfoliation
If you follow those steps you will find that your skin will become more manageable, feel less greasy and look healthy. Sadly this won’t happen overnight, consistency is key so be sure to focus on products that will work for your skin.
How To Treat Blemishes On Oily Skin
Not everyone with oily skin can expect to have blemishes, blemishes are formed when bacteria, dirt, excess sebum and leftover product block the hair follicle. This can then form into blackheads, spots and cysts. What you have to remember is that maintaining a good skincare routine will be the remedy to breakouts.
To treat blemishes on oily skin is simple, just follow the steps previously mentioned with the addition of added products use to topically target any active spots. Salicylic acid is one of the main acids you will find in blemish-fighting products. This BHA is oil soluble meaning it can cut its way into the lower layers of the skin and clear the pores of all the compounds that lead to blemishes. As powerful as this ingredient is, be careful with the strength you decide to use, too strong will dry the skin which as you know by now is bad news!
If you are finding your blemishes to be consistent than seeking the advice from a dermatologist is recommended. If you do purchase any over the counter products for fighting blemishes and oily skin be sure to apply a small amount on the forearm to see if there is any skin reaction before using it.
How to Prevent Excess Oil on The Skin During The Day
Oil production continues to work throughout the day, which can lead to your T-zone looking greasy by midday, to prevent this you can follow these simple steps.
Be sure to complete your skincare routine in the morning
If you are wearing makeup use a mattifying skin base and oil-free products to keep the makeup looking fresh and stay in place.
Ensure your makeup brushes are clean to stop any cross-contamination of any remaining oil
Use a light powder to knock back any shine
If you are out and about use blotting paper to absorb any excess
Try not to touch your face too much as the oil from your fingers can add to the excess oil
Ensure you thoroughly remove any makeup and cleanse the skin at the end of the day
What Is The Best Makeup For Oily Skin
Makeup and oily skin is undoubtedly a challenge! With excess sebum affecting the consistency of foundations finding the right product can be difficult, not forgetting that oil can cause rapid oxidation changing the foundation colour and tone completely. Here is a guide to finding the correct products for you:
Choose products that are water-based and oil-free
Consider using a powder foundation as this has the ability to stay in place and absorb excess oil
Invest in silicone-free, mattifying primers to apply before your foundation
Use a setting spray on the finished look to keep it all in place
Use blotting paper throughout the day to absorb any excess without ruining your makeup
With blemishes going hand in hand with oily skin, you may feel tempted to apply a lot of foundation to cover any spots. This can in fact cause more blemishes by clogging the pores and stopping the skin from being able to breathe. The best method to hide the unwanted blemishes is to spot conceal, which is to apply concealer to the problem areas and not the entire face, you will find you will look flawless and the number of blemishes reduced.
What Moisturiser Should I Use With Oily Skin
You wouldn’t be blamed for thinking that having oily skin means you don’t need to use moisturiser, this is a mistake made by many! The skin’s protective barrier needs to have correct levels of water and oil to allow it to work. Moisturisers add great hydration and moisture to the skin which helps the barrier to remain healthy. This means it can then fight off any skin-irritating toxins, free radicals and environment that can damage the skin resulting in premature ageing and many more.
The best moisturisers to use when you have oily skin are ones that are water-based and usually come in a light, oil-free, gel-like formula. These hydrate the skin and avoid disrupting the oil levels in the skin.
Can I Use A Face Oil If I Have Oily Skin
The word “oil” may send shivers down your spine, but it’s been proven that using certain types of oils on oily skin can really help transform the complexion. As counterproductive as it may sound, using an oil on oily skin is actually very beneficial.
Since oils are quickly absorbed it can reinforce the skin’s barrier by making it stronger and less vulnerable to damage. Usually oily skin is stripped away of the natural oil causing problems. Using a face oil will replenish the skin’s oils restoring balance back to the skin and even keeping blemishes away!
Take into consideration that not all oils will work for your skin:
Tea Tree Oil- this oil is anti-bacterial and will zap away any problematic spots and blemishes with no trouble.
Rose Oil- is great for locking in moisture and hydration with great anti-inflammatory properties
Magnesium- reduces inflammations without causing any imbalance in oil levels
Other such nourishing oils such as avocado and popular coconut should be avoided due to the fact they are comedogenic, meaning they clog pores.
So for those of you who have oily skin now have a clearer understanding of the best ways to treat and look after your face. Just as long as you remember maintaining a good routine, drink plenty of water and keep your diet and makeup brushes clean, you will find that having oily skin isn’t such a bad thing after all, especially if you get to look younger for longer!
Are you interested in finding out more in the acids that can keep your skin shine and blemish-free? Take a look at our AHA and BHA guide.
